Saturday, 5 January 2013

Myanmar-final impressions

As in India, our fondest memories of Myanmar are of the people we've met along the way.
Certainly traveling around and finding accommodation can be a real challenge in Myanmar, where these industries seem unprepared for the recent rise in tourists. A special license is required by a guest house to accommodate foreigners so places are limited and prices have more than doubled in recent months - still reasonable by European standards but far from competitive with other Asian countries- probably 2-3 times more expensive than India.
Also demand for transport seems much greater than supply, and in places taxis can be very expensive- particularly as competition seems to be closely controlled.
Foreigners are often charged tourist rates for services that are free or much cheaper to locals - walking in parks for example (where you also need to leave your name and sometimes passport number before entering), or just entering tourist places like Inle and Bagan ($10 for entering town).
Something that only became clear to me after we arrived is that only a relatively small part of Myanmar is actually open to tourists to visit, mainly due to ongoing ethnic regional conflicts or areas where poppies are harvested in great numbers.
So tourists are restricted mostly to the triangle from Yangon up to Mandalay (via Bagan) and across to Lake Inle.
While it was fascinating and enjoyable to visit at this time, it is clear that some substantial changes are required to realise the ambition of growing a sustainable tourist industry.
This brings me to the main issue of course. The people of Myanmar seem desperate to break free from the constraints of the longest surviving military dictatorship in the world, and the corruption that plagues so many aspects of people's lives. Wherever we have been it is clear there is overwhelming support for "our Mother" Aung San Suu Kyi and the National League for Democracy, and great optimism that real change will happen soon. Will the Military hand over power in 2015? Yes, the West are trying to develop increasing commercial ties and might be able to bring some influence to bear, but the Military Government have developed strong trade links with China (mainly exploiting Myanmar's natural resources) and seem to be playing the West's interests off against their powerful and expanding neighbour. That English phrase about turkeys voting for Xmas comes to mind.
As if to underline the fragility of the political situation, two days before we left it was reported that the government had ordered air strikes on ethnic rebels in Kachin State, towards the border with India.
We can only hope for the sake of the wonderful people we've met over the past 18 days, that their optimism is not misplaced.
Myanmar is a land rich in resources- gold, gas, wood, jade, and not least the indomitable spirit and cheerfulness of the people. It seems that, once again, the country is at a crossroads.

Location:Air Asia

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